Watches and Wonders 2025

It’s the most “wonderful–yes watches and wonders–time of the year

On our latest episode, we get you the latest out of the Watches & Wonders fair from Geneva.

Last week, my long-time colleague Mark, who now serves as a watch analyst for the podcast, and I arrived in Switzerland to attend Watches & Wonders, the year's most significant horological event. The anticipation was palpable as we looked forward to discovering the new releases and innovations from leading brands at this prestigious fair. And, I can assure our readers and  listeners that the experience did not disappoint; expectations were not only met, but they were exceeded with boundary-pushing innovations and seminal breakthroughs

What Wonders you say? Geneva is the Horological Hub of the world.

Yes, it was like the holiday season for Mark and me and over 55,000 visitors—a 12% increase from last year—flooded into Geneva for the event.

That’s alongside the mindblowing 6,000 retailers (up 5%) and 1,600 journalists, including ourselves (up 7%).

More than 12,000 retail meetings took place, underscoring the event’s growing stature.

The Palexpo was the epicentre, but the energy spilled into central Geneva—hotels, boutiques, and Lake Geneva itself became a vibrant showcase for watch enthusiasts.

Mark aptly noted that this transcends the typical trade fair; it’s a meticulously curated celebration of timekeeping excellence.

The mood was notably upbeat, a stark contrast to 2024’s sombre tone, despite a 2.4% dip in Swiss watch exports earlier this year and a late curveball from the American President’s tariff announcement. Brands leaned into optimism, focusing on innovation and product launches, which set a refreshing tone for the week.

Trends: Innovation, Heritage, and Aesthetic Evolution

What we saw from the fair this year and highlighted in our episode is several key themes. “Inside Out” captured the industry’s focus on movements—enhanced technology, extended power reserves, and precision were front and centre. “Heritage and Revival” saw brands pulling things out of their archives, often tied to anniversaries or partnerships. Aesthetically, stone and natural dials stood out, complemented by ceramic finishes and a shift toward smaller case sizes. Colour also played a significant role, adding vibrancy to many collections.

Standout Watches: The Stars of 2025

What stood out? Well, here are just a few of the highlights. (Hit the play button for the complete rundown).

Here are just some of the episode goodies for you.

Ulysse Nardin’s Diver Air left a lasting impression. At just 52 grams, it’s the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch, crafted over six years with a recycled titanium and carbon fibre case, a sea-recovered NATO strap, and a 90-hour power reserve. Comprising 80% Swiss air, it balances eco-consciousness with performance (up to 5,000G resistance). Mark, sporting an older 132-gram UN diver in the episode, agreed with me that it was a remarkable feat, and its singular focus made it a fair favourite for us and those in attendance.

Rolex unveiled the Land Dweller, powered by the new 7135 movement: a five-Hertz marvel with 36,000 vibrations per hour and a Dynpulse escapement. Seven years in development, it delivers a plus-or-minus-two-seconds-a-day accuracy that adapts to the wearer’s lifestyle. Drawing inspiration from the 1970s Oyster Quartz, its fluted bezel and hexagonal dial patterns mark a bold evolution for Rolex. Meeting their engineers over a casual drink offered rare insight into their forward-thinking approach.

Grand Seiko’s 9RB2 Spring Drive movement impressed everyone in attendance. With plus-20-seconds-a-year accuracy, a 72-hour power reserve, and aged quartz crystals for stability—all for under £10,000 with the stunning Ice Forest dial.

Patek Philippe’s 5238 brought an eight-day power reserve and instantaneous date change, while Jacob & Co.’s Astronomia 4-axis tourbillon dazzled with complexity. Bovet’s Recital 30 tackled daylight savings with half-time-zone adjustments, and Breitling’s Top Time B31 offered an in-house, non-chronograph option at £4,500.

Heritage and Aesthetic Highlights

We also thought that Heritage shone through with TAG Heuer’s Formula 1 relaunch, tied to their new role as Formula 1 timekeepers.
Mark and I agreed it echoed the 1986 original. It features a Solargraph movement (two minutes of sunlight for 24 hours of power) and remains under £2,000—accessible and true to its roots.

Chopard’s Alpine Eagle, also following its lineage, inspired by the 1980 St. Moritz, reflects a family legacy, with Karl Fritz Scheufele steering its modern iteration.

And, we can’t forget Rolex’s GMT tiger iron dial and H. Moser’s Endeavour Pop collection—featuring coral orange, turquoise, and lapis—brought striking colour to the table.

A Refined Approach

One notable shift was the new-found restraint in launches. Brands like Rolex pared their SKU count from triple digits to just 60, giving every new piece its own spotlight. This refined approach—possibly a savvy pivot to staggered releases—lent a sophisticated credibility to the fair, ensuring that each watch truly shone like a coveted gift waiting to be unwrapped.

Closing Reflections: A Memorable Fair

Mark singled out the Land-Dweller as the defining moment—a watch that seems poised to steer Rolex’s future trajectory. For me, the unforgettable highlights were the UN Diver Air, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute on its Milanese mesh bracelet, and Patek’s 7010G. Yet, the real magic of Watches & Wonders 2025 wasn’t just in these iconic timepieces—it was in the experience. The fair brought together brilliant engineers, passionate storytellers, and serendipitous encounters that enriched our view of the watch world.

So if you didn’t get to join us in Switzerland, don’t fret. The season of wonder is just getting started for you. Tune into the episode on YouTube, Spotify, or Apple Podcast—you definitely don’t want to miss the full rundown.

What were your favourite moments from Watches and Wonders 2025? Let us know on our social media channels.

COMING SOON: Catch the full episode on YouTube, iTunes & Spotify, featuring exclusive interviews with Ulysse Nardin’s Matthieu Haverlan, Hublot’s Nick Callegari (General Manager UK & Ireland), and Raphael Nussbaumer (Chief Product Chief).

Faye Soteri, Watch World with Faye, April 12, 2025

Sign up for news on early episodes, what’s to come and more

Follow Watchworld With Faye on Instagram, TikTok, YouTube and LinkedIn.

Suggestions? What are your thoughts on the podcast? Get in touch

Have an event to plan? Not sure where to start? Faye Soteri Consultancy

Want to be on the podcast? We’d love to hear from you here